DIY Mini Wood Charcuterie Board

This post is sponsored by The Home Depot. This post may contain affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. Please read full disclosure for more information.

So many times I see photos of gorgeous oversized charcuterie boards overflowing with cheese, grapes, jams, nuts, and meats. But I always wonder if all of that beautiful food gets eaten — I doubt it. Sometimes you just want to sit down alone or with a friend (or in my case, a toddler) and share a small charcuterie style snack.

Today I’m showing you how to make a mini wood charcuterie board that’s perfect for midnight snacks, pretend play with kids, or a date night.

The great thing about this simple DIY is that it only requires 2 tools, a jigsaw and a Dremel rotary tool. I’m using the Dremel 4300 with a few of the accessories that are included in the kit.

The reason I like using the Dremel 4300 is because of its size, power, and ease of use. The attachments are easy to switch out and the sanding bands and discs are easy to manage on small projects like this one. The sanding band can reach into nooks and crannies that would be more difficult to do with another tool. The sanding discs provide for more precise sanding than a larger scale electric sander. The Dremel 4300 aslo comes with a keyless chuck which eliminates the need to change the collet based on the attachment you’re using. The Dremel 4300 kit comes with a host of attachments and includes all of the attachments and accessories I’m using for this DIY project.

If you do not have a Dremel you can substitute it with an electric sander (just make sure you protect your hands because this is a small scale project).

TOOLS, ACCESSORIES, AND SUPPLIES

If you don’t have a Dremel you will need the following tools and accessories in addition to those listed above.

  • Power Sander
  • 60 grit power sander sheets
  • 240 grit power sander sheets

Step 1

Trace your desired shape onto your lumber. I’ve provided two printable PDF templates below.

Step 2

Clamp your wood board to your work station for a secure hold. Using a jigsaw, cut out your desired shape from your lumber.

Step 3

Attach the drum sander and sander band to the Dremel 4300. Using the appropriate speed, run the sander band along all the edges of your board until they’re smooth and rounded.

If you’re using an electric sander for this step you can replicate this by using 60 grit sandpaper.

Step 4

Attach the 120 grit sanding disk to the Dremel 4300 and give a sanding to the entire board until smooth. Repeat this step with the 260 grit sanding disc to finish.

Step 5

Wipe any additional dust from the board, using a vacuum if necessary. Apply the butcher block oil with a soft, clean cloth according to the package directions. If you desire an additional coat, Allow at least 6 hours dry time before recoating. The board must cure for 72 hours before use. Wash the board thoroughly before first use.

DIY Fold Down Drying Rack with Building Guide

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. Please read full disclosure for more information.

What would it take to make you enjoy doing laundry? I don’t think I can answer that question, but having a fold down drying rack will certainly make it a little easier for me.

I recently built a fold down drying rack for my laundry room refresh and I wanted to share a high level building guide with you. My guides are not in-depth, or detailed building plans, but they should provide you with the visual aid and supply list you need to build the drying rack on your own.

This drying rack is the most sturdy when folded down to a 90 degree angle. If you plan to use your rack at a 45 degree angle, I recommend installing the hinges towards the top.

Supplies

Tools:

To build this drying rack I recommend doing all of your cuts and drilling your holes first. Second, build 3 of the 4 sides of the inside fame. Next add a little glue to the ends of the dowels and then insert into the pre-drilled holes. After your dowels are secure, attach the fourth side and then secure the frame with screws (this part might require a bit of trial and error). Build the outside frame and then or stain all your pieces. Last, attach your hardware (according to the package directions) and mount to your wall.

Again, if you want your rack to lay down flat, attach the hinges towards the bottom. If you want your rack to open to a 45 degree angle attach your hinges towards the top.

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